Azalea trench coat sewing tutorial
PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Double-breasted medium volume trench coat with turn-down collar. It features pockets in the raised seams of the front. The back has a fold in the center and a flap. The sleeves are two-seam, with a sleeve strap at the bottom. There are shoulder straps on the shoulder seams. The trench coat is completed with a removable belt.
SUGGESTED MATERIALS
We recommend using shape-resistant materials such as denim and cotton.
ALSO NEEDED
• Buttons — 4 pcs.;
• Snap buttons — 4 pcs.;
• Interfacing — 1.70 m (1 ⅞ yd).
FABRIC REQUIREMENT (CM/IN)
for fabric width 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
|
International Size \ European size |
XXS-XS / 34-36 |
S-M / 38-40 |
L-XL / 42-44 |
2XL-3XL / 46-48 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, m | 3,45 | 3,55 | 3,65 | 3,75 |
| Main fabric, yd | 3 ¾ | 3 ⅞ | 4 | 4 ⅛ |
When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5—10% more than required.
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Pattern pieces already include 1 cm (3/8”) seam allowances.
SPECIFICATIONS
(№ – Name – Pieces’ quantity)
Main fabric:
1 – Front – 2
2 – Front side – 2
3 – Folded back – 1
4 – Folded back yoke- 1
5 – Top sleeve – 2
6 – Under sleeve – 2
7 – Folded top collar – 1 + Interfacing
8 – Folded under collar – 1 + Interfacing
9 – Stand – 2 + Interfacing
10 – Epaulettes – 2 + Interfacing
11 – Sleeve strap – 2 + Interfacing
12 – Facing – 2 + Interfacing
13 – Belt – 2 + Interfacing
14 – Belt loop – 1
15 – Pocket bag – 4
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCES
(in cm and in)
• Chest ease — 20 cm (7 ⅞”);
• Waist ease — 40 cm (15 ¾”);
• Hips ease — 16 cm (6 ¼”);
• Shoulder ease — 12 cm (4 ¾”).
PATTERN PIECES
INTERFACING
Top collar (7), under collar (8), stand (9), Epaulette (10), sleeve strap (11), facing (12), belt (13). Interface the allowances on: front hem (1) and pocket entrance, side hem (2), back hem (3).
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
Width of fabric — 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
Size — 34 (XXS)
Size — 48 (XXXL)
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
FRONT
1. Sew darts on the front pieces (1). Form the dart along the notches and stitch down to the base point of the corner. Press the dart down.
2. Overlock the inner edge of the hem (12) and stitch the seam allowance to the wrong side at 0.2 cm (1/16’’).
3. Place the hem right sides together with the central part of the front, pin together, aligning the notches, and stitch at 0.7 cm (1/4’’). Press the hem flat without making any edging.
4. Stitch the top edge of the side front. Fold the facing over the front piece right sides together and stitch at 1 cm (3/8”) to the notch on the lapel.
5. Trim out a corner, cut the notches and flip the edge onto the right side. Press it flat.
POCKETS
1. Place one pocket bag (15) on the front piece (1) right side together, the second one on the side piece (2). Sew at 1 cm (3/8”) from the edge.
2. Topstitch at 0.2 cm (1/16’’) along the pocket bag of the front part. Press the allowances onto the pocket.
3. Place the right side of the side piece on the right side of the front part and stitch down the side front seam, while simultaneously stitching down the pocket bag. Press the allowances towards the front part. Backstitch on both sides of the pocket entrance.
4. Press the hem allowances at the bottom of the front by 1 cm (3/8”) and by 2 cm (3/4”) following the notches.
BACK
1. Fold the back (3) in half right side inward and mark the length of the fold from the neckline cut. Sew the fold and press the seam. Align the fold along the notches. Stitch it along the neckline and press the fold along the entire length of the back.
2. Press the hem allowances at the bottom of the back by 1 cm (3/8”) and 2 cm (3/4”) following the notches.
3. Press the back yoke (4) along the hem allowance by 1 cm (3/8”) and 1.5 cm (3/4”) following the notches.
4. Topstitch. Press.
5. Place the yoke inside out on the back and stitch along the edges of the armhole and neckline.
6. Place the front on the back right sides together, stitch and overlock the shoulder seams. Press seam allowances towards the back.
7. Sew side seams. Overlock seam allowances and press towards the back.
COLLAR
1. Sew to the top (7) and under (8) collars with the stand (9). Press the allowances.
2. Topstitch at 0.2 cm (1/16’’) along the top collar stand on both sides of the stitching seam.
3. Press the bottom edge of the stand in the top collar to 1 cm (3/8”).
4. Place the collars right sides inward and sew at 0.7 cm (1/4’’), not reaching 1 cm (3/8”) before the cut of the collar being sewn into the neckline. Cut out corners and turn onto the right side.
5. Topstitch at 0.2 cm (1/16’’) from the stitching seam along the under collar. Press.
6. Place the top collar facing the collar neckline, pin and sew at 1 cm (3/8”). Press seam allowances.
7. Place the under collar facing the neck of the trench coat, pin it together and sew at 1 cm (3/8”) . Press the seam allowance.
8. Sew the allowances of the stand and collar gorge sections inside. Stitch at 0.2 cm (1/16’’) along the top stand along the ironed seam allowance, covering the seams where the collar is sewn into the neckline.
SLEEVE STRAPS AND EPAULETTES
1. Press the epaulettes (11) and shoulder straps (10) in half with the wrong side inward, then fold them in half, right side inward, and stitch. Cut out the corners. Flip them onto the right side and press the seams.
2. Stitch at 0.2 cm (1/16’’) along the epaulettes and shoulder straps.
3. Make buttonholes on epaulettes and shoulder straps.
LOOPS
1. Overlock one section of the belt loop (14), place the second section towards the center of the part and cover it with the overlocked allowance. Press along the entire length and topstitch at 0.2 cm (1/16’’) from the folds.
2. Cut the belt loops to the desired length.
3. Sew the belt loops in the area of the shoulder seam, leaving 3 cm (1 1/8”) from the armhole cut. Press.
4. Place the shoulder straps on the cut of the armhole following the notches and stitch.
5. Sew the belt loops onto the side seam at the waistline. Press.
SLEEVES
1. Press the hem of the bottom of the front part (5) and the elbow part (6) of the sleeves by 1 cm (3/8”) and by 2 cm (3/4”) following the notches.
2. Fold the front and elbow parts of the sleeve facing inward and sew the elbow seam. Overlock seam allowances and press towards the front sleeve.
3. Topstitch along the elbow seam at 0.5 cm (3/16’’). Press.
4. Sew the belt loops along the bottom of the sleeve, marking the location using the patterns. Press.
5. Place the sleeve strap on the front of the sleeve, observing the notches, and stitch.
6. Sew the front seam of the sleeve. Overlock seam allowances and press towards the elbow part of the sleeve.
7. Topstitch along the pressed seam allowance at the bottom of the sleeve.
8. Insert the sleeves into the armholes right sides together with the garment, pin along the notches and sew in, evenly distributing the fit. Overlock and press the seam allowances on the trench coat.
9. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16’’) along the armhole on the front side, 3 cm (1 1/8”) higher from the front side seam, and ending the stitch at the level of the yoke.
10. Sew the facing to the shoulder seam.
11. Fold the facing over the front piece and stitch along the bottom, falling into the pressed fold. Cut out the facing and corner, flip it onto the right side and press it.
12. Pin the bottom along the entire length, matching the seams, and topstitch at the width of the hem. Press the bottom.
13. Topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16’’) along the facings and collar. Press.
BELT
1. Sew the waistband parts (13) along the middle seam. Press the seam allowances flat.
2. Place the waistband facing inward and stitch it, leaving an unstitched hole for turning it inside out.
3. Turn it right side out, press it and topstitch at 0.5 cm (3/16’’) along the waistband.
4. Sew buttons and snap buttons.
5. Give the trench coat a final press
